2016 marked a pivotal year for Yves Saint Laurent, a year of both striking contrasts and consistent evolution. The house, under the creative direction of Hedi Slimane, continued its provocative journey, pushing boundaries and redefining the very essence of what constituted Saint Laurent. This exploration manifested itself most prominently in the brand’s two ready-to-wear collections – Spring and Fall – each offering a distinct yet undeniably YSL aesthetic. Beyond the runway, the year saw a fervent discussion surrounding the brand's identity: was this a reimagining of the original haute couture house, or a bold, new entity entirely? Let's delve into the details of the Saint Laurent 2016 collections, exploring the runway looks, the beauty elements, the models who brought them to life, and the critical reception that followed.
Saint Laurent Fall 2016 Ready-to-Wear: A Dark Romantic Rhapsody
The Saint Laurent Fall 2016 Ready-to-Wear collection was a dramatic affair, a dark romantic symphony played out on the Parisian runway. Slimane, known for his signature slim silhouettes and rock-and-roll attitude, delivered a collection that was both familiar and surprisingly nuanced. The palette was predominantly black, punctuated by deep reds, rich burgundies, and occasional flashes of metallic gold. This somber elegance was instantly recognizable as Saint Laurent, yet it felt imbued with a newfound depth.
The collection featured a range of iconic Saint Laurent pieces reimagined for a modern audience. The legendary tuxedo suit, a cornerstone of Yves Saint Laurent's legacy, reappeared in various iterations – from classic black to bold velvet variations. Leather, a material synonymous with the brand, was heavily featured, appearing in sleek jackets, fitted trousers, and even flowing dresses. The silhouettes were, as expected, lean and elongated, emphasizing the body's natural lines. However, there was a sense of fluidity and movement, contrasting with the often rigid structure of previous collections. Long, flowing coats, sheer blouses layered under structured jackets, and delicate lace details softened the typically harsh edges of the Saint Laurent aesthetic.
The accessories played a crucial role in completing the overall look. High-heeled boots, often reaching mid-calf or even thigh-high, were a staple, enhancing the leg-lengthening effect of the slim silhouettes. Small, structured handbags, often in black leather or metallic finishes, added a touch of sophistication. The jewelry was minimal yet impactful, with delicate necklaces and earrings complementing the overall mood.
The models chosen for the Fall 2016 show reflected the collection's dark romanticism. Familiar faces from the Saint Laurent stable walked the runway, their expressions conveying a sense of brooding intensity that perfectly captured the collection's spirit. The casting emphasized a certain androgynous beauty, further blurring the lines between masculine and feminine aesthetics that were central to Slimane’s vision.
Reviews of the Fall 2016 collection were largely positive, praising its sophisticated darkness and the masterful execution of classic Saint Laurent elements. Critics lauded the collection's ability to balance the brand's inherent rebellious spirit with a newfound sense of refinement. However, some critiques pointed to the collection's consistent reliance on slim silhouettes, suggesting a lack of inclusivity and a departure from the broader body types that Yves Saint Laurent himself celebrated in his designs.
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